Working with Future – Ivan Rich   There doesn’t seem to be a day that passes without someone asking a question about using Future. Will it hurt the plastic? Is it compatible with acrylics? How about enamels?  Here are two methods you may want to use the next time you’re thinking about applying Future to your model.   Airbrushing Future:   If you're airbrushing, Future is scarcely a tad thicker than water.  It can be used straight from the bottle; no mixing with special thinners or alcohol. Since it is an acrylic, it dries very fast.  Shoot from 6-8 inches away, and the Future will no doubt produce a rather pebble-like surface, since it's drying before it hits the surface. If the PSI is at 20 or above, here come the puddles and the runs.  To remedy this, set your compressor (if you have one handy) to about 12 PSI and hold the airbrush about 3-4 inches from the model.  Fight the temptation to concentrate on one spot and move back and forth in smooth, even strokes. You will need to do 3-4 very light coats to get the nice pre-decaling sheen you're looking for.  One nice characteristic of Future is its leveling properties.  When done correctly, the results are very gratifying.  Use Windex to clean out your airbrush after spraying with Future.   Brushing Future on by hand:  Another method is to apply Future by hand; the results will surprise you.  Here's what you'll need:                                            A jug of Future (about $4 at the supermarket). A ½-inch wide and soft bristle brush. Use a ¼-inch brush on 1/72 scale.                                      Small cup or disposable container. An absolutely clean, dust-free surface.          First, dip your brush into Future and gently dab it on the rim. You want a brush that's wet but not soaked. Start by applying it in the same direction using steady, even strokes.  If you’re applying it to aircraft, brush in the direction of the airflow, applying it to the topside of the model.  Once you're satisfied you haven't missed anything, set it down and cover it with a large, clear bowl.  In about 30 minutes or so, go ahead and do the underside.  Keep repeating this process until you have the sheen or gloss you need to apply decals.  Future works great on any cured paint ... acrylics or enamels.   Once all of the applications are finished, say two to three coats, let the Future cure for a full 24 hours.  Future will dry to a rock hard, clear gloss.  Then apply decals as you normally would.  Once you’re finished decaling, apply Future over the decals as a final seal to avoid "silvering."  Allow the Future another day to cure, and then proceed with any desired weathering, which you can easily do with washes using oil paint, watercolors, pastel chalks.  If you then want to achieve a dull, flat finish, simply spray on dullcote.  To clean your brush, use Windex followed by a warm water rinse.   For even more definitive information on using Future, visit the "Tools & Tips" link on the Aircraft Resource Center Website (www.aircraftresourcecenter.com) or (http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-100/TNT096_Future_Swan/tnt096.htm)    It's simple to apply Future; just give it a try, and ... happy modeling!        Using Metalizer Powder for Weathering – Bob Gerhardt   This is just one of the techniques you can use to show worn aircraft finishes. First, plan where you want the finish to simulate worn paint and bare metal.  Next, figure out where, how much and what type of servicing or inspections would occur on the airframe.  Worn areas are normally walkways, access panels and leading edges of both flying surfaces and props.   Begin by finishing the model with the base color coats.  Once the basic color scheme has cured, apply a semi-gloss clear coat and allow 24 hours for it to cure.  Then apply a thin wash of the normal primer color applied very lightly at panel edges and other worn areas to simulate the aircraft’s undercoat.  Next, apply an even more thinned very light gray over that to simulate heavily anodized aluminum showing through.  Then allow another 24 hours for this to cure and then seal all of this with another thin semi-gloss coat finish.   Apply Metalizer Aluminum Powder next with a soft fan-shaped brush for area coverage and a fine tipped brush to panel line edges for more heavily worn areas. The real secret is to showing wearing from heavier to lighter areas. The wear is normally a feathered effect except at the panel lines.  Apply your washes and aluminum powder just a bit more heavily than you think you want your final product since any gloss from the aluminum will tend to vanish with the final clear coat.  A flat finish will require more wash and powder than a gloss coat.   Remember, the wear pattern is bare metal first, then airframe primer, and finally the aircraft finish.  Avoid sudden transitions of the wear pattern unless you’re doing WWII Japanese aircraft.  Good paint holds on tight!       Basic Supplies & Building Comments     Supplies (in no particular order): X-acto Knife with #11 blades Sprue Cutters Testors tube cement Various size paint brushes Tweezers Various grades of sandpaper and/or sanding sticks Q-tips Toothpicks Access to a pin-vise or Dremel-type carving tool should drilling be necessary Rubber bands Basic paint colors (explain the + or - points of enamels vs. acrylics).  Inexpensive sets are available at Wal-Mart Mineral spirits and alcohol as thinners (cover safety considerations) Distilled water as thinner for acrylic paints   Low-tack masking tape such as drafting tape or Tamiya/Testors masking tape Scissors Cotton Balls Old wash cloth for brush cleaning Small magnifying glass Plastic Dixie-Cups Putties as fillers (explain the precautions necessary) Small pudding size bowl for decals Testors Micro Sol & Micro Set decal solutions Future floor finish for canopies and clear parts Need for a cutting pad or old cutting board Bright work light or proximity to a window (also for ventilation). A safe, designated area to work.  (Need to keep all above items away from younger children, pets.) Related to above, a tackle box or container of some sort that can be secured.  Plastic containers with lids and plastic pencil/crayon boxes with secure latch are also good.    Good-sized, flat, sturdy working surface, such as an old table, desk, or workbench      Building comments: Wash those parts!! (Use a mild dish detergent and lukewarm water to wash parts prior to painting.) Don't rush. Models have no sense of time or deadlines. Read the instructions thoroughly before starting. Careful separation of parts from sprues and the need to remove rough spots or flash. See how certain assemblies have a bearing on the outcome and paying attention to painting instructions. Dry fitting parts before glue or adhesives are applied. Finishing tips and why they are in the order they're in: clean surface, paint, gloss coat for decals, apply decals (with or without setting solutions), seal decals to avoid silvering, apply Dullcote. Display ideas from small bases to hanging them from the ceiling.   And...finally: Good reference sources on particular aircraft and/or visiting forums such as HyperScale, Aircraft Resource Center and Modeling Madness.  (Visit their galleries, Tools & Tips on ARC, read reviews, etc.). Why different scales, i.e., 1/24, 1/32, 1/48, 1/72. Begin with models that fit your allowance or budget.  Where to find them (Wal-Mart, Michael's, Hobby Lobby 50% off sales, etc.). Stick with something you can finish and suitable for your skill level.  Don't take on some 200 part monster you're not prepared for!!     Masking Techniques – Bob Gerhardt   There are hundreds…maybe thousands of ways to mask models.  Modelers develop their own ways that will work for them and adapt those to differing situations as needed.  Some of these techniques are as different as the modelers that use them. Bear in mind that what may be a good technique for me may not be good for the next fellow.  Each kit is different and will pose its own challenges.  Let me explain in the following paragraphs what usually works for me.   First, I clean the pieces which need to be masked.  Mild soap and water will work for most painted and unpainted surfaces.  There are times that an alcohol rub or bath is necessary, like when working with vaccuform, cast metal or resin parts.  Polishing the surface to be masked works particularly well when preparing clear plastic parts.  Polishing will remove dirt and grime but also deposits wax and liquid masks tend to bead and pull away from where you want it.   Use vinyl gloves when handling parts that have been cleaned and are ready for painting. I ’ve bought heavier gloves fairly cheaply at hardware stores that will last a good number of uses and have also used lighter gloves in multi-packs that can be bought on-line, at medical supply stores and at pharmacies.  Gloves will keep you hands clean and, should you get paint, glue or adhesive on them, they can be readily changed and thrown away, which will help keep the paint and glue smudges away.   Cover clean parts to keep dust off of them.  I use egg cartons or plastic containers that have locking tabs.  You can just pop the parts in and out as needed.  Supermarkets use a large variety of packaging for pre-made sandwiches and salads.  My preferences are for the clear plastic ones because it’s easier to keep track of where the parts are.  Use larger containers for the larger parts and egg cartons for the smaller parts.  Ensure the containers themselves are cleaned and dry before you use them.   Use tack cloths frequently while working.  Trapping dust with tack cloths prevents dust migration to other parts.  As you clean and polish parts, static will build which will attract loose particles.  The particles trapped under the tape will allow bleed through and rough paint edges.  Dust settling on freshly painted or sealed surfaces are disasters that have happened to me in the past so this is one step I follow all of the time.   Prepare the surfaces for mask adhesion.  Polish, and then lightly coat canopies with Future.  Gloss coat any flat paint surfaces.  Tape and vinyl masks adhere better to gloss surfaces.  Liquid masks work well on flat coats, but they can be hard to remove completely.  After applying masking, lightly seal the edges to prevent paint bleed.  Use Future for clear parts and for painted surfaces use whatever sealer will be applied later as the finish used to complete the model.  Just as long as the coats are thin enough to prevent buildup of raised edges along the masking everything will be all right.  Use the same brand of sealant to avoid any compatibility problems between materials.  This will allow the mixing of flat and gloss coats without encountering compatibility problems.   When removing tape and vinyl masks, lightly score around the masking before pulling it free.  Use a new #11 blade and there won’t be a need to use too much force.  I truly do mean lightly score or you will scratch the part.  The new blade will give the sharpest painted edges for canopies and will help prevent ragged demarcation between paint colors.  X-acto blades can be purchased cheaply through Micro Mark in packages of 100 each.         Masking – Del Miller       One of the things I enjoy about modeling is the painting stage.  One really is convinced that the end result isn't far away, and, for the first time, the model is actually beginning to look like a miniature "whateverit'ssupposedtobe" and not a sanded, scribed, polished here-and-there bunch of plastic.  But painting is also daunting, depending on the color scheme.  Some are easier than others.  The model that you'll see with this article is a 1:48 Hasegawa P-47D Razorback.  I've often told folks who ask about all the different colors that if it had one more coat of any paint, the landing gear would collapse!   This aircraft appealed to me for the very reason that it is a rainbow of colors.  Besides the Olive Drab and Neutral Grey, there are yellow (Theater) identification stripes, white and black Invasion Stripes, some red no-walk areas, and some natural metal finish areas.  In planning for painting something this complex, it really does have to do with how to proceed with masking.    I used a variety of tapes and such to accomplish this color scheme.  Here’s a list with comments on the various types:   1) Masking Tape - Local hardware store, cheap!   2) Low-tack (Drafting) Tape - This is available in most art stores or places which sell draftsman's supplies.  A low-tack tape is just that...it has enough adhesive to stick but not enough to tear off chunks of paper if properly removed.  A draftsman used to tape the corners of the paper being used on the drafting board, hence the name.   3) Paper Tape - pretty much the same as Low Tack Tape, but made of paper.   4) Tamiya Tape – This is sold by Tamiya and comes in different widths and roll sizes.  It's easily recognized by its yellow color and its adhesive is low tack.  Good stuff!   5) Striping Tape - We got this, I believe, from the guys who build cars; the good thing is that it is very narrow and can be coaxed around a variety of compound curves, like the fuselage of that P-47D Razorback.   6) Commercial Masks - I'm talking here about Black Magic Masks, sold by Cutting Edge, or E-Z Masks, which is a Canadian outfit.  If you're willing to pay the price, you can find a set of these that are purpose-made for your kit.  That's not true for that obscure Fairey Farkle that Grandpa gave you in 1961, but most current popular kits are provided for in this stuff.  For my P-47D, I bit and bought the Black Magic set and used most of it, too.   Burnishing   The other thing you should find is something with which you can burnish the edge that will make the paint demarcation line on your model.  Most art stores carry burnishing tools at reasonable prices for artists/graphics people who use a lot of dry-transfer lettering.  I use a piece of wood doweling, with one end cut in a flat curve.      Applications   Some thoughts on applications:  One of the most important things in this stage is planning.  What paint are you going to put down first?  And what's next?  For my P-47D, I applied Neutral Grey on the bottom surfaces first, followed by the top coat of Olive Drab.  I usually protect a color code with a clear, flat coat on top of it before masking for another color.  I used Pratt & Lambert's Dull Varnish No. 38. This is enamel and thins with regular, cheap paint thinner.  Choose your own.     After the P-47D Razorback's basic "out of the factory" paint is on, then it's time to start on the (major) detail stuff. In looking at the photos available of the aircraft I was modeling, I realized that the yellow ID stripes had gone on the a/c and then (shortly after) the Invasion Stripes.  So I masked and painted on the colors in that order, especially since the Invasion Stripes (closest to the wing-root) partially covered the ID stripes.  When you've finished masking the area to be sprayed, burnish the edge of the tape.  Be gentle but firm, as you do not want to leave a mini-gap along the edge; for if you do, paint will find its way into that little gap. (Go ahead, bet me it won't happen; I love easy money!)  After applying clear flat-coat to the ID stripes (once they're dry, of course), I then used the Black Magic masks to do the wing and fuselage Invasion Stripes.  The directions for using these things are good (they even give text-challenged folks little pictures so that we can see what we should be doing!).  Taking one's time here is important.  Just follow the directions.   A note here:  When spraying paint in this process, always attempt to spray away from the edge of the masking tape; that is, don't spread into the tape edge as if you were trying to get paint to go under the edge.  The other note for masking and spraying is, insofar as it is possible to do so, carefully remove the masking material when you've done your painting, as soon as possible!   I can usually take five minutes and clean my airbrush.  The longer you leave the mask on the model, the drier the paint becomes.  The drier the paint becomes, the more apt you are to have a raggedy edge when you remove the tape.  If you pull the tape off carefully and in the direction of the demarcation line, you should be able achieve a nice, clean paint line.  Remember, you want to cover the area to be painted but not inundate it!  If you flood the edge of the tape with paint, I guarantee that you'll pull up some of it when you take the tape off (as indicated above).  The beauty of spraying is that you can get thin coats; be careful not to build up paint along those tape lines.   In the case of my P-47D, I took off the Black Magic Masks and found that I had one or two crooked lines (my fault) and an area of mask that had lifted slightly (remember that mini-gap and the easy money?).  So, after applying clear-coati over the Invasion Stripes and letting that dry, I just re-masked the area to be corrected and dusted on a coat that was light but which covered the original mistake.  Another note:  Once I've masked an area to be painted, what I should see is only the part of the aircraft that's to be painted.  I achieve this by, once the tape is down, covering the rest of the model (where I don't want paint) with newspaper, then taping the edges of the newspaper to the rear edge of the masking tape I've laid down on the area to be painted.  This avoids embarrassing overspray, gnashing of teeth, seeing if the model can really fly be throwing it across the room, etc.   When you think about it, masking is a sort of that is very…….boooorrrrrring!  But it is a necessary part of getting yourself to that place where you want to be, in possession of that finished model that's just what you've wanted it to be.  And it's not rocket-science...like most modeling, it's that old adage:  “Plan your work, then work your plan.”  And then there was....Decaling!"       Painting Stripes on Ordnance  – Rick Reinbott     One of the challenges in painting model aircraft is how to paint those tricky stripes on the curved front part of ordnance.  A fellow modeler friend of mine, Jeff Brundt, suggested that I try a method using a Lego block as a template to achieve this.  Faced with the challenge of painting stripes on the centerline bombs on my 1/48 F-105D, I eagerly went to work and was pleased with the results.    What I did first was hold the bomb upright with the bottom resting on my workbench.  I then took a piece of Lego block that was the approximate height of where the stripe would be and taped the brush to the top part of the Lego block with masking tape. I dipped the brush in yellow Testors Gloss paint (Canary Yellow) and held the "template" steady with one hand while slowly turning the bomb around with the other hand.  If you keep the ordnance and template steady enough on a flat surface, the stripe will come out more or less even.  Also, it's important that the part of the brush touching the ordnance be consistent, as the more of the brush touching the ordnance, the thicker the stripe will be.   Once I got the hang of it, it went relatively quickly.  It's also easy to do a second coat or touch up to the stripe once the “initial” stripe itself has been painted on.   That’s it!  If you need to apply more than one stripe to the ordnance, just find another Lego block with the right height and repeat the process.  Happy Modeling!           Building a Simple Base – Rick Reinbott       If you’re looking for a way to build a simple base for photographing your model aircraft or armor on, here's an inexpensive way to do so.  This is what you'll need:    ·          Pre-cut base – couple of dollars at a local craft store (Michael’s) ·          Celluclay Instant Paper Mache  - also available at Michael’s ·          Wood stain (if desired) and sealer for the wood ·          Acrylic Dark Brown Craft Paint ·          Elmer’s Glue ·          Woodland Scenics brand Ground Cover ·          Testors Dullcote (or another brand that you’re comfortable with)   ·          Water    The base was first stained with two coats of leftover deck stain & sealer.  I mixed Celluclay with water (naturally), and then added color to the Celluclay by mixing in acrylic dark brown craft paint, which was then spread onto the base.  After letting it dry completely for 48 hours , I mixed Elmer's Glue with a little water (don't let the mixture to get too runny), spread that over the groundwork, and sprinkled Woodland Scenics "Turf" on the glue until the proper coverage was achieved.  I then blew off the excess until everything stayed in place.  After letting it dry overnight, I sprayed a light coat of Testors Dullcote over it to make sure the "grass" stayed in place and let it dry for around 6 hours or so before putting a model on it to take pictures.  Happy Modeling!       Weathering Armor – Brad Parker       I generally use Winsor Newton oils and some enamels to do all my weathering.  I start out with Winsor Newton (“WN”) Black and Burnt Sienna mixed to come up with a good dirty black color. I thin this down so it runs a little bit when applied. Not too thick, not too thin. I apply this to all the crevices, nooks, and ‘crannies’ that are on the model.  Don't get too worried about splashing it around or being too messy, most of that will get covered up when drybrushing with the lighter colors.  Let the wash dry overnight and then it's on to the dry brushing.     I always start my weathering with the drybrushing as if the vehicle just came out of the factory and into the field.  I start with darker shades of earth tones and work my way up to the very last dry brush of pure WN White.  However, you can use any colors you want.  It depends on what shades of dust and dirt you’re shooting for. Splotch them around and make it look as random as you can.  The beauty of oils in this regard is that you can keep feathering them out until you get the shade you want.  Mix and match between oils and enamels...whatever it takes to get the right look.     To thin my oils I use the odorless turpenoid.   The brush size depends on the area you're painting.  I go from 000 to 3/4" brushes.  Experiment, you'll figure out what size you need as you're looking at the model and trying to determine what needs to be done.     Since I do a lot of armor, I try and remember that the lower sides and backs of these vehicles is where the most dirt and grime would accumulate, so you want to weather your model heavier in those areas.  It's all pretty simple stuff; it just takes a little time and practice as with anything else.  That about covers it; good luck!